So, you’ve decided you want pearl jewellery - wonderful choice! Pearls possess a timeless allure, yet they also come in many varieties that can express different styles. How do you decide which type of pearl is right for you or your loved one? This buyer’s guide will walk you through the considerations to find your perfect pearl. We’ll discuss matching pearl types to personal style and occasion, how to identify quality, and tips for ensuring you’re getting genuine pearls.
Match the Pearl to Your Style and Occasion
First, consider the personality and style of the wearer (whether that’s you or the gift recipient). Different pearls have different vibes:
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For classic, understated elegance: You can’t go wrong with Akoya pearls. Akoya are the traditional round white pearls that immediately say class. If you (or the person you’re buying for) gravitates towards Audrey Hepburn-Esque fashion, little black dresses, or a professional wardrobe, Akoya pearls will complement that beautifully. Think of a simple Akoya pearl pendant or stud earrings for daily elegance. Brides also often choose Akoya pearls for their wedding day - the soft white glow of Akoyas complements white and ivory gowns perfectly.
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For bold statements and a modern edge: Tahitian pearls are a fantastic choice. Their natural black/grey/peacock tones are striking and a bit unconventional. If the wearer loves making a style statement, wearing unique pieces, or has a wardrobe with a lot of monochrome or high-fashion elements, Tahitian pearls will fit right in. A single large Tahitian pearl necklace can be a conversation piece. Tahitian pearl drop earrings can add drama to an evening look. They also pair wonderfully with contemporary styles - imagine a Tahitian pendant, perhaps with diamond accents, worn with a sleek blazer or even a leather jacket for contrast. Tahitian pearls say I march to my own drumbeat, but I do it with style.
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For versatility and everyday wear: Freshwater pearls offer a world of options. Freshwater pearls come in various natural pastel shades and also many shapes. They are usually more affordable, making them ideal for someone who wants to experiment with pearl jewellery in different colours or trendier designs. Freshwater pearls can go from the office (simple white pearl studs) to casual weekend (a long necklace you can double up) easily. They’re great “first pearls” for someone building a jewellery collection, or for matching sets for bridesmaids, etc., since they’re elegant yet budget-friendly.
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For ultimate luxury and heirloom pieces: While not in the title of this post, we should mention South Sea pearls (if only briefly) for completeness. South Sea pearls (white or golden) are the largest and rarest cultured pearls, known for a soft satiny lustre and usually a very high price point. If you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime investment piece - say a very special anniversary gift, and love larger pearls, South Sea could be your answer. A strand of golden South Sea pearls is a head-turner and often considered the pinnacle of pearl prestige. However, note that many retailers (including us at times) might not stock a lot of South Sea pieces due to their cost; if you’re interested in South Sea pearls, be prepared to invest significantly. They are splendid for someone who already has the basics and wants that crown jewel of a collection.
In short, tailor the pearl type to the person. Think about their wardrobe: do they wear more silver or gold? (White pearls go with both metals; golden pearls look great with gold metals; black pearls often are set in white gold or sterling, but really can go with any metal depending on design.) Think about their lifestyle: someone who wants to wear pearls daily and not worry too much might prefer the hardy freshwater pearls for an everyday stud earring, whereas someone who attends formal events might adore a Tahitian strand to stand out.
Consider Skin Tone and Colour Preferences
While there are no strict rules, some people like to choose pearls that flatter their complexion:
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If the person has cool or fair skin tones, white pearls with a rose overtone can really brighten the face. Akoya pearls often have that soft pinkish glow that looks lovely on cooler complexions. Silver or blue overtones on pearls (like some Tahitians can have a silvery-steel overtone) also complement cool tones.
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For warm or olive skin tones, creamy pearls or golden-hued pearls can look fantastic. Golden South Sea pearls against warm skin are just radiant. Freshwater pearls with a natural peach or gold tint can also pick up the warmth in the skin. Tahitian pearls that lean green or bronze in overtone might also complement warm tones nicely.
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Dark skin tones are lucky - almost all pearls look stunning against darker skin. White pearls create a beautiful contrast, coloured pearls like Tahitian or pink freshwater look harmonious and rich. One might lean towards larger pearls or pearls with strong colour for an extra pop against the skin (think a large white pearl on a dark skin tone - it’s just pure elegance).
That said, these are just suggestions. Personal preference trumps all. If someone absolutely loves the look of peacock Tahitian pearls, it likely won’t matter what skin tone they have - they’ll rock it!
Also consider eye colour and wardrobe colours. For instance, if someone often wears black outfits, Tahitian pearls or white pearls both would pop (Tahitian for tone-on-tone edgy look, white for contrast). If someone loves pastels and florals, maybe they’d enjoy the soft colours of freshwater pearls (pinks, purples). If someone’s signature look is very minimalistic (think lots of beige, white, and simple lines), classic white Akoya or even edgy black pearls can both fit – one for blending into a minimalist palette, the other for being the one focal point.
Quality Considerations When Buying
In a previous post we covered pearl quality factors in depth. When choosing the right pearl for you, think about quality in terms of what you value and what your budget allows. Some tips:
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If you want that mirror shine and can invest a bit more: go for top-grade Akoya or perhaps high-lustre freshwater. You will notice the difference in glow. Especially for something like stud earrings, lustre is key because they’re front and centre on your face.
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If size matters to you: Determine what size looks proportional and flattering on the wearer. For petite frames or younger wearers, a 6-7 mm pearl can be perfect and delicate. For a more dramatic look or for taller/bigger frames, 8-10 mm might be preferable. Freshwater and Tahitian pearls often give a size advantage for the price (you can get larger pearls at a lower cost compared to Akoya). Remember, as pearl size increases, price jumps significantly if other factors are equal.
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Surface and shape: If a few spots here and there don’t bother you, you can get better value by choosing pearls that aren’t “flawless”. Many freshwater pearl strands, for example, have beautiful lustre but might have one or two pearls with a little ring or spot – these are usually priced much lower than perfectly clean strands, yet the overall look is nearly the same to an untrained eye. Baroque pearls are another way to get larger sizes and unique beauty at a lower price than equivalent round pearls. Don’t dismiss imperfect pearls - they often have character and natural charm (and any small blemish won’t be noticed by anyone but a pearl grader).
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Matching the jewellery type to the pearl: If you’re choosing pearls for earrings, lustre and shape are very important (since they’ll be seen close to the face). Also, it’s crucial the pair matches well. Examine them side by side - they should be as identical as possible in colour, size, shape, and lustre. For a pendant, you can prioritize one single pearl of great quality. For a strand necklace, you’ll want good matching and a comfortable length (usually 16-inch choker, 18-inch princess, or longer opera lengths depending on personal style).
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Metal choice for settings: Think about what metal the person usually wears. Most pearl studs or pendants come in either yellow gold or white gold/silver. There’s no hard rule (white pearls in yellow gold looks very classic; in white gold looks elegant and modern). Tahitian pearls are commonly set in white gold or silver to complement their cool tones, but setting them in yellow gold can create a striking contrast and contemporary look. Just match the wearer’s preference so they will coordinate with their other pieces.
How to Tell if a Pearl is Real: 5 Simple Checks
Speaking of authenticity, you may be curious or concerned about making sure you’re getting real pearls (not plastic or glass fakes). The good news is there are a few time-tested ways to distinguish real cultured pearls from imitations:
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The Tooth Test: Gently rub a pearl against the edge of your front teeth (don’t bite down, just glide it). Real pearls feel slightly gritty or sandy against your teeth. This is because of the microscopic texture of nacre. Fake pearls (often made of glass or plastic) will feel perfectly smooth like marble or plastic. Be sure to clean the pearl afterward if you do this test, and obviously be careful not to do this with pearl jewellery that has glue (like some inexpensive pearl studs are just glued onto posts - getting those wet or stressing them isn’t wise). But for a loose pearl or a strand knotted on silk, the tooth test is quick and harmless. Note: high-quality imitations sometimes use a coating to mimic nacre and might feel a little gritty, but generally real nacre has a distinct fine grit sensation.
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Surface inspection - look for tiny imperfections: Real pearls, being natural products, usually have some tiny irregularities - perhaps a little bump, a subtle ridge, or a slight variation in shape from one pearl to the next. Imitation pearls are often too perfect: uniformly the same, with a glassy surface and no subtle pits or growth lines. Examine in good light: if every pearl in a strand is exactly the same and utterly flawless at a bargain price, be suspicious. Real pearls vary and even the best will show minor irregularities under magnification.
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Lustre depth: Real pearls have a depth to their lustre, a sort of inner glow, that fakes often lack. A real pearl’s lustre comes from light reflecting and refracting through layers of nacre, giving a soft yet sharp glow. Imitations usually just have surface shine (like a painted bead). You might notice real pearls seem to glow from within and have more complex highlights, whereas fake pearls look more like flat white beads with surface gloss. This can be subjective and hard to judge until you’ve seen many pearls, but it’s something experts look for.
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Shape and Size Variance: As mentioned, real pearls in a necklace or pair will never be 100% identical like machine-made beads. Even “perfectly round” pearls will have the tiniest differences. If you roll real pearls on a flat surface, they won’t all roll perfectly smoothly and some may wobble due to slight off-round shape. Fake pearls (especially plastic ones) are often moulded perfectly round and all exactly the same. Also, check the drill holes: on real pearls, the drill hole is usually small and clean, often just big enough for the silk thread. On cheaper fake pearls, holes might be larger and you might even see flaking of paint/coating around the hole.
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Weight and Temperature: Often, real pearls feel slightly heavier for their size than plastic fakes (because nacre and mother-of-pearl bead are dense). If you have a strand, gently feel the weight in your hand – do they feel substantial for little beads, or light like plastic? Glass fakes can be heavier, but glass also tends to feel very cold at first touch then warm up. Pearls are more of an insulating material; when you first pick up a strand of real pearls, they might feel cool, but they quickly warm up against your skin. Plastic fakes feel, well, like plastic - often room temperature immediately and almost “too light.” This tip is a bit nuanced but can help when combined with other clues.
Ultimately, if buying from a reputable jeweller, you shouldn’t have to do these tests, they should guarantee authenticity. But it’s empowering to know how to check, especially if you inherit pearls or find a vintage piece and wonder if it’s real.
If ever in doubt, you can take pearls to a jeweller or gemmologist. They can examine them (sometimes X-rays are used to see internal structure, which can distinguish cultured vs fake vs natural). But for everyday purposes, the steps above work well.
Final Thoughts on Choosing Your Pearl
Selecting a pearl is a personal journey. It’s not just about checking boxes of size or colour, it’s about finding a gem that speaks to you and fits into your life beautifully. Take your time, do a bit of homework (since you’re reading this, you already are!), and don’t hesitate to ask questions when shopping.
Try on different pearl jewellery if you can; you might be surprised which one you fall in love with. Sometimes a type of pearl you didn’t consider could win you over once it’s against your skin. Also, consider the wearability: a large pearl ring might be stunning but if you do a lot of work with your hands, maybe pearl earrings or a necklace are more practical. A
At Raison d’Être, we aim to guide our customers to their ideal pearl match. Whether it’s via our online descriptions or one-on-one virtual consultations, we’re here to ensure you feel confident in your choice. We carry Akoya, Tahitian, and Freshwater pearl pieces in the Maya Sienna collection to suit a range of styles and budgets, and we carefully select each pearl for its quality. No matter which type you choose, you’ll receive a piece that’s been crafted with care and expertise.
Remember: every pearl is unique, and the “right” pearl is the one that makes you feel beautiful and happy. Trust your instincts - when you find the pearl that’s meant for you, you’ll know. Here’s to finding that perfect pearl and enjoying its lustrous glow for many years to come!