Thinking of investing in timeless pearl jewellery but not sure where to start? You’re not alone. Whether you're shopping for a special gift or curating your own fine jewellery collection, understanding the differences between Akoya, Tahitian, and Freshwater pearls is key to making a confident and stylish choice. In this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about these exquisite pearls - from their origins and unique qualities to value factors, care tips, and styling ideas.
Why Pearls Are Making a Luxury Comeback
Pearls have always been a symbol of elegance. Worn by royalty and style icons like Audrey Hepburn, they exude a classic charm. But today’s pearl jewellery is anything but old-fashioned. Contemporary designs using Akoya, Tahitian, and Freshwater pearls bring a fresh, modern edge to this classic gem. Whether it’s minimalist pearl studs or bold statement necklaces, pearls are being embraced by modern brides, creative professionals, and collectors who want luxury with meaning. The result is a major comeback for pearls in the luxury world, proving that they can be both timeless and trend-forward.
Understanding the Different Pearl Types
Not all pearls are the same. The three main types you'll encounter - Akoya, Tahitian, and Freshwater, each have their own character and appeal:
-
Akoya Pearls: Classic & Elegant
-
Origin: Primarily Japan (saltwater oysters)
-
Size: 5–9 mm (typically smaller, very uniform in size)
-
Shape: Usually perfectly round
-
Colour: White or cream with rose, silver, or ivory overtones
-
Lustre: Exceptionally high, mirror-like shine
-
Style: The epitome of classic elegance. Akoya pearls are perfect for bridal jewellery sets, simple stud earrings, and the iconic single-strand necklace. They suit those seeking a traditional, refined look with a radiant glow.
-
Tahitian Pearls: Exotic & Bold
-
Origin: French Polynesia (cultivated in black-lipped saltwater oysters)
-
Size: 8–14 mm (medium to large pearls)
-
Colour: Natural dark tones - black, charcoal grey, peacock green, aubergine, and even hints of blue or bronze
-
Lustre: Deep, metallic glow with a satiny sheen
-
Style: Mysterious and modern. Tahitian pearls, often called black pearls, make an edgy yet sophisticated statement. They are stunning as solo pendants, in drop earrings, or combined with diamonds. Their dramatic colours appeal to those with bold or unconventional style who want a luxurious gem that stands out.
-
Freshwater Pearls: Versatile & Charming
-
Origin: Freshwater lakes and rivers (primarily China)
-
Size: 4–12 mm on average (some can be larger)
-
Shape: Often slightly off-round or baroque, though high-grade freshwater pearls can be near-round. Comes in many shapes (round, oval, button, baroque)
-
Colour: A range of soft natural colours including white, cream, pink, peach, and lavender.
-
Lustre: Usually a soft, warm lustre. Top-quality freshwater pearls now approach the bright lustre of Akoya pearls, but generally they have a gentle sheen rather than a sharp mirror shine.
-
Style: Affordable and adaptable. Freshwater pearls are beloved for their variety and accessible luxury. They are often used in playful or everyday designs, from simple studs and bracelets to multicoloured strands. Because they are more abundant, you can find larger or uniquely shaped freshwater pearl pieces more affordably. They’re perfect for someone starting a pearl collection or looking for jewellery that can be worn day-to-day without worry.
Each of these pearl types offers its own expression of beauty. Akoya pearls give that flawless, bridal-white elegance; Tahitian pearls bring drama and modernity; Freshwater pearls offer versatility and youthful charm. Your choice will depend on the look you love and the statement you want to make.
Pearl Value Factors & Grading Basics
You might be wondering why one pearl piece can cost three figures and another runs into the thousands. The value of a pearl is determined by a combination of quality factors:
-
Lustre: This refers to the shine and reflectiveness of the pearl’s surface. High-lustre pearls have crisp, mirror-like reflections - the most important factor in a pearl’s beauty and value. If you can almost see your reflection clearly in the pearl, the lustre is excellent. Pearls with dull or chalky surfaces are less prized.
-
Surface Quality: Pearls are organic gems, so completely flawless pearls are very rare. That said, the fewer the spots, bumps, or blemishes on the surface, the more valuable the pearl. A pearl with a smooth, clean surface will command a higher price than one with many marks, since blemishes can affect both beauty and durability.
-
Shape: Perfectly round pearls are the most traditional and, generally, the most valuable because they are difficult to culture. Akoya and Tahitian pearls are often valued for their roundness. However, baroque (irregular) or off-round pearls have their own unique charm and are popular in artistic or modern designs. In general, symmetry is desirable: for example, well-matched drop-shaped pearls can also be quite valuable.
-
Size: When comparing the same type and quality, bigger is more expensive. Larger oysters (like those producing Tahitian or South Sea pearls) yield bigger pearls, which are rarer and thus cost more. For instance, an 8 mm Akoya pearl is considered large, whereas an 8 mm Tahitian pearl is on the smaller side. Even a few millimetres can dramatically change the price.
-
Colour and Overtone: Pearls come in a spectrum of colours. Some colours are rarer or more currently in fashion, which can increase value. For example, natural gold South Sea pearls or deep “peacock” green overtones in Tahitian pearls are highly coveted. Ultimately, the value lies in the beauty and rarity of the colour. Overtone, the subtle secondary hue (like a pink blush on a white pearl) adds depth and desirability. Color preference can be subjective, but vividly coloured pearls or those with exquisite overtones tend to fetch higher prices.
Pearl Grading: Unlike diamonds, pearls do not have one single universal grading system, which can be confusing for buyers. Many jewellers and pearl farms use their own grading scales. Two common ones you’ll see are A–AAA (often for Akoya and Freshwater) and A–D (often for Tahitian and South Sea). For example, “AAA” usually denotes a top-quality pearl with very high lustre and very clean surface, while “A” or “D” might indicate more noticeable flaws or lower lustre. However, an “AAA” from one retailer might not be identical to an “AAA” from another, because there is no strict industry-wide standard. The key takeaway is to buy from a reputable source. At Raison d’Être, for instance, every Maya Sienna pearl piece undergoes hand inspection and strict quality vetting before being incorporated into a jewellery piece, so you can buy with the confidence and assurance that you are getting an outstanding piece.
Pearl Care: Keeping Your Investment Beautiful
Pearls are precious organic gems that, with a little TLC, can last for generations. Here are some essential care tips to keep your pearls glowing:
-
Last on, first off: As a rule, put your pearls on last when getting ready, and take them off first when you get home. Cosmetics, perfume, hairspray, and even natural skin oils can all affect pearls. Apply any perfumes or sprays before you put on your pearls, and let those products dry. Pearls should be the finishing touch to your outfit, not exposed to chemicals or sprays.
-
Wipe after wearing: After you wear your pearls, gently wipe them with a soft, lint-free cloth (a microfiber cloth or a special jewellery cloth works well). This removes any traces of perfume, sweat, or oils from your skin. This simple step helps prevent build-up that can dull the pearl’s lustre or even damage the nacre over time.
-
Avoid chemicals and water: Never submerge pearls in water or use harsh cleaners. Pearls can be damaged by many chemicals and all acids, including things like household cleaners, chlorine, vinegar, and yes, even your sweat if left uncleaned. Don’t use ultrasonic or steam cleaners on pearls either as the vibrations and heat can cause cracks or peeling. If a deeper clean is ever needed, use just a drop of mild pH-neutral soap in warm water, wipe the pearls with a soft cloth dampened in that solution, then immediately wipe with a clean damp cloth and dry flat. Ensure any silk string is completely dry before wearing the pearls again.
-
Store with care: Pearls are softer than most gems, about 2.5 on the Mohs hardness scale (where diamonds are 10). This means they can scratch easily. Store your pearl jewellery separately from other metal or gemstone jewellery that might rub or knock against them. Ideally, keep them in a soft pouch or lined jewellery box. Avoid sealing pearls in plastic bags for long periods (pearls like a bit of humidity; extremely dry conditions can cause them to age or crack). A fabric-lined box or silk pouch is perfect. If you live in a very dry climate, keeping a glass of water nearby or wearing your pearls regularly can provide the slight humidity pearls appreciate.
-
Wear your pearls: This one might surprise you, but pearls kept locked away for years can dry out. The natural moisture from the air and your skin actually helps keep pearls hydrated and lustrous. So don’t be afraid to wear your pearls often (just remember the tips above). Pearls want to be worn, it’s good for them!
With these simple habits, your pearls will retain their glow and strength for decades. Many pearl enthusiasts lovingly speak of handing down their pearls to daughters or nieces. With proper care, your pearl jewellery can truly become an heirloom, increasing in sentimental value with each generation.
Frequently Asked Questions about Pearls
Q: Are cultured pearls “real” pearls?
A: Yes - absolutely. A cultured pearl is 100% a real pearl. The only difference is in how they begin forming. Natural pearls start by pure chance in the wild, whereas cultured pearls are born with a little help from pearl farmers. In both cases, the same process of the oyster (or mussel) secreting layers of nacre creates the pearl. Cultured pearls have the same lustrous beauty as natural pearls, but they are far more affordable and accessible because they can be farmed sustainably. In short, don’t be misled by the term “cultured,” it is 100% genuine, just with human guidance in the growing process.
Q: Is one type of pearl better than another (for example, are Tahitian pearls better than Akoya)?
A: Not better, just different. Each pearl type has its own appeal and fits different tastes. Akoya pearls are prized for their classic white roundness and mirror shine, making them perfect for traditional elegance. Tahitian pearls are valued for their larger size and exotic dark colours - they offer a unique, modern luxury. Freshwater pearls are adored for their variety and value, often available in playful shapes and colours at accessible prices. Rather than thinking in terms of “better or worse,” consider which type suits your style and purpose.
Q: Can pearl jewellery be worn every day, or is it only for special occasions?
A: You can absolutely wear pearls daily - in fact, pearls love to be worn! (Refer to the care tip above.) For everyday wear, many women (and men) choose simple pieces like Akoya pearl stud earrings or a delicate pearl pendant. These add a touch of elegance to any outfit, even jeans and a tee, without being too fussy. The key is to treat your pearls kindly during daily wear: put them on after you do your hair and makeup, and take them off if you’re doing anything very active or messy. Many people wear a small pearl necklace or studs as their daily signature accessory. Just remember to give your pearls a quick wipe after wearing and they’ll reward you with their lasting glow. With proper care, there’s no reason pearls can’t be a part of your everyday style.
Final Thoughts: Choosing the Pearl That’s Right for You
Armed with the knowledge of pearl types and quality factors, you’re now prepared to make an informed choice when buying pearl jewellery. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless grace of Akoya, the mystique of Tahitian, or the sweet charm of Freshwater pearls, there is a pearl out there that will feel like it was meant for you. Consider the recipient and the occasion: are you shopping for a bride-to-be, celebrating a 30th anniversary (the “Pearl Anniversary”), or treating yourself to a versatile piece you can wear to the office? The answer will guide you to the right pearl.
At Maya Sienna by Raison d’Être, we curate pearl jewellery that blends oceanic elegance with modern design. Every piece in our collection is crafted using ethically sourced Akoya, Tahitian, or Freshwater pearls, chosen for their exceptional quality.
Explore the Maya Sienna Pearl Collection and discover which pearl speaks to you.